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1954 Buick Forum - the 54 Buick Highway

old-tank

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Everything posted by old-tank

  1. For the carpet, just flush liberally with water. Your leak may be the Ranco valve (under that pile of undercoat where the hoses go into the firewall). Remove and plug the hoses going into the Ranco valve and see if it still leaks. Also post your question on the AACA forums...Buick...Postwar.
  2. Take the old cables to the lawn equipment repair shop. They can duplicate and form the ends.
  3. I have the system working on my cars. While it is neat to have it functioning as designed, that pathetic squirt is essentially useless.
  4. Probably not. That 1/8 inch difference will fill in when tightened. Put it together and move on...
  5. Look at section 12 and 13 in the service manual if it is like my 55 manual it has all you need to know?
  6. You have gone this far so do it. The new moly rings are cheap and have far less drag then the original. My 322 still showed hone marks at 80,000 miles...original rings would have worn a groove. If it has low, but slow miles the ring grooves will be full of sludge.
  7. They are probably ok for another 50,000 miles if intact.
  8. http://www.restorationspecialties.com had them in the past.
  9. Not really. Just focus on one at a time and do ALL the work yourself. Get one running a driving...just to jump into when aggravation starts or interest wanes. And don't buy anything else except maybe a cheap parts car for the parts YOU need.
  10. Hoo Boy, it looks like CARS is still selling junk mounts. Remove them and verify that the studs on the mount will index the holes in the frame. You will probably find that the studs are too close together. After choice words referring to the vendor, I grind the inside 1/3 of the studs to get them to fit; be sure to chase the threads so the nuts will go on easily.
  11. It looked good until here. At this point tighten till all looseness is eliminated then tighten until you can insert a cotter pin in either the horizontal or vertical hole. This will give up to 1/12 preload on the bearings. Ball bearings need preload for long life.
  12. Lock washers under the nuts. The heat will soon make them ineffective, but by then the nut is fused to the bolt or stud.
  13. The original stuff seemed to be some sort of black sponge rubber that is now dry and crumbling or melted and smearing the glass edges. Since I have found nothing that satisfied me, your assignment is to come up with something that looks good and functions.
  14. The only thing wrong with the lug bolts is that it is hard to line up the wheel with that single pin when installing. Just make some temporary studs (2) to aid in the installation.
  15. The original seals were leather and always grooved the bushing. I recently pulled mine apart after 80K miles and there was only a slightly shiny area where the seal rode.
  16. Change the gear oil and drive it. Monitor for fluid in the tube. If there is fluid in the prop shaft it may take awhile to get out. Is the bushing that the seal rides on in good shape? National Seal 470774 is the one for the front of the torque tube and should be available locally for a good price (if you need to change again)
  17. Originals were painted along with the engine (green). Replacements were black. Think: 'anything needed to run the engine on a test stand would be painted; no items would be removed after running'
  18. Spiffy but never to be seen again.....like the inside of my heater box.
  19. You should have mentioned that vendor the first time; they never take responsibility for mistakes or substandard parts. I had the same problem on a friends car and no returns allowed. We bolted the drum to rear hub backward and with that side of the car on jackstands, started and put in gear and used an angle grinder to carefully remove the excess.
  20. Compare the drums to the old ones. You may have 2.5 inch drums (that would fit the front on a Roadmaster) or if aftermarket drums they may need to be sent back or modified.
  21. Either take it apart before ordering or get the deluxe kit (you may not need to replace anything). Usually the pins on the shafts have as much or more visible wear as the bushings, but on low mileage cars those parts still have some service life.
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