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About Vindictive

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/15/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Charlotte, NC

Car Info

  • 1954 Buick(s) 48D
  1. Column Harness

    Completed the horn contact and turn switch re-wire job. It really wasn't too bad of a job. The horn contact was destroyed. A piece of it was completely missing. I never did find it. The rubber bushing that the contact is seated on was completely loose and sliding on the steering shaft. In fact, I believe that the rubber had slid out almost completely from underneath the brass contact as it was much lower on the shaft than where it should have been positioned when I pulled the column off, and there was a rub mark around the steering shaft where the rubber should have been that that would correspond to the location of the sweeper as it passed over the slot of the missing brass on the contact.I used a little rtv to "glue" the rubber back into the correct position on the shaft, and also to "glue" the plumbing fitting to the rubber bushing. The biggest pain I ran into was adjusting the shift linkage after I raisedthe column(my thigh always hits the bottom of the steering wheel when I lift my leg to brake). Of course the clevis and nut were frozen on the shift rod so I had to remove the rod and heat it up with a torch to get the nut to break loose. Then I bumper the end of the clevis with my forearm while it was still hot and burned two nice little marks on to myself with the ends of the clevis.
  2. Anybody got a good neutral safety/ reverse switch? The little pin is broken off the slider on mine.
  3. Steering Wheel Nut

    Found a tap. All good.
  4. Anybody know if steering wheel nuts are available? Would like to replace mine as there's a gnarly looking thread in there and I don't havea 11/16-20 tap to clean it up with.
  5. 54 century 4dr sedan

    I got mine at o'rileys. Dorman part#555-084 forthe steel ones. There are brassones available too that won't rot over time like the steel ones.
  6. 54 century 4dr sedan

    2.25" Just did minea few months ago.
  7. 1954 Buick Special interior

    A 56R would be a Super, not a Special. Checkout
  8. Column Harness

    Getting ready to tackle this job. Got all my color-correct wires and a 3/4''-1'' reducer fitting. I'm planning to pull the column only and leave the steering box and shaft in the car. Dothe reverse/neutral safety switch and the horn sweeper at the lower end of the column need to come off in order to slide the column off? I tried to remove the screws that hold the horn sweeper, but they wouldn't budge. Not enough room to swing a hammer at my impact driver under there. I gave them a shot of pb blaster a couple of days ago but haven't tried again yet.
  9. Fuel Pump Connections

    I crawled under the car and disconnected both sides of the electric pump.I was able to suck thru the Facet Posi-Flo pump easily. The mechanical pump should be able to pull fuel through it without issue. However, I am going to move the pump from it's current location (crossmember in front of/above the tank) down to the fuel rail just behind the door, as it should be below the fuel level of the tank. I rebuilt the mechanical pump this weekend and will put it back on the car this evening. I bought the rebuild kit thru The only problem I ran into was a clearance issue with one of the valves in the lower half of the main body of the pump. It's the one that sit's flush with the diaphragm surface and the vacuum cover. The brass spring retainer on the valve was contacting two points of the pump body casting below the shoulder the valve is seated onand not allowing the valve to seat flush with the gasket surface. This was resolved by carefully reducing the diameter of that brass spring retainer to obtain the clearance required for the valve to seat flush, with plenty of brass left to retain the spring.
  10. Fuel Pump Connections

    I'm currently running a little Facet Posi-Flo fuel pump mounted to the frame back by the fuel tank. It's what was there when I got the car. The stock mechanical pump was left in place but totally disconnected from any fuel or vac hoses. I pulled it off and put a block off plate on with the intention of someday rebuilding the mechanical pump. Lower side of the pump was full of oil. I've finally ordered the rebuild kit and I'm ready to do that now. I'm running an electric wiper motor, so I don't need the lower half of the pump for wipers.The hole in the manifold is plugged. Should I leave the entire lower half of the pump disconnected? Or, do I connect the outlet side of the pump back to the manifold and plug the inlet side? Also, I'd like to leave the electric pump in place but wire in a toggle switch in the event that priming is ever necessary. I've read many threads here about running the two pump set-up with Facet pumps mentioned, but I couldn't find any mention of a specific model. Anybody know if the Facet Posi-Flo will allow the mechanical pump to pull gas through it when not powered up? I guess I could just crawl under the car, disconnect the line and see if I end up with a mouthful of gas, but I'm hoping someone can spare me the trouble.
  11. New member 54 Super Convertible, Orange County, CA

    I like the look of my Coker bias-plys. They handle well enough. Like other have said, they're a little grabby on rough or uneven road surfaces but overall I've been happy with them.I would have liked to tried the bias-look radials, but they are pricey. Maybe next time.
  12. Power steering conversion

    I'd buy it for my special if it came with that unobtainable dual groove pulley for the 264.
  13. Column Harness

    Last December, like two days before Christmas, I had to go pick up a last minute Christmas present for my wife after work. As I was driving thru an extremely busy parking lot I turned the wheel and the horn went off, then it stopped when I straightened out. Then it did it again the next time I turned the wheel. At this point the person in front of me is probably thinking "what the hell is this guys problem?" and I was getting all kinds of looks from people walking to their cars. This time it didn't stop when I straightened out. I pulled over as soon as I could find an empty space, which took forever because it was so busy with other last minute shoppers. I couldn't sort it out there, and ended up just pulling the fuse for the horn so I could drive without the horn full blast all the way home. Anyway, I've been driving since then with no horn because it's grounding out somewhere inside the column. My guessis the bushing/contact on the lower end of the shaft as I was unable to find any issue up at the top when I removed the horn ring from the steering wheel. I've read about the repair process for replacing this bushing with a plumbing fitting and plan to tackle this job in the near future. However, while troubleshooting the horn I noticed that the wires coming out of my column for the turn signals, etc. are extremely brittle. If you mess with them at all the insulation cracks and falls off leaving bare wire exposed. I want to replace all of this when I do the horn job. I've only found one site that offers this harness and it's like $80, and they usually want a small fortune for shipping on top of that. Anybody know of another source that has it for less? For that price I'm inclined to make my own.
  14. Chasing a Noise

    I should have updated this a while back. New valves and guides all the way around. Re-ring cylinders 1, 7, and 8. New rocker shafts and pushrods. New rope seal at the rear. Got rid of the alternator and put a generator back in. Cleaned the mesh in the valley cover and filler cap with a solvent bath.There was somesludge in the pan but not too bad, and lots of crud in the water jacket. Scraped all the grease and gunk off of the motor, cleaned it really good and gave it a fresh coat of paint. Pretty sure Ispent way more time cleaning than actually turning wrenches. Anyway, it runsgreat, no leaks. Been back on the road for a while with no issues other than a voltage regulator that wouldn't cooperate.
  15. Window Cranks