Vindictive

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About Vindictive

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/15/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Charlotte, NC

Car Info

  • 1954 Buick(s) 48D
  1. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Everything good so far. Tapping is gone. Been driving it to work everyday and a little running around town as well. It was an awful racket when I first fired it up, but they quieted down pretty quickly as they pumped up.
  2. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Pull the distributor and prime before starting? Or is the assembly lube sufficient until oil pressure comes up?
  3. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Look what I found. And for lessthan a set of aftermarket lifters.
  4. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Thanks Willie. I feel somewhat better after reading that post. Part of me isleaning toward tracking down one or two NOS lifters that area direct replacement for '54, and just replacing the one that's tapping. The other part of me just wants to replace the whole lot of them and not worry about another one going bad in another 6 months. Here's the page I found over on AACA: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/80587-1955-valve-lifter-interchange-help-needed/
  5. What oil for lifter break-in?

    A little more reading last night has left me more concerned about the compatibility of aftermarket lifters available from pretty much all of the retailers out there. I read that all of the reproduction cams being sold are of the cast iron alloy variety like '56 rather than the forged steel that was what came in the '54. I checked CARS, Kanter, Bob's, and Fusick, and they all sell a camshaft labeled 1953-1956, and yet theysell lifters for 53-55 and another for '56. The lifter bodies for 53-55 weremade from chilled iron, while the lifters from '56 were made of cast iron alloy. A single camshaft isn't going to be compatible with both types of lifter. It seems that chilled iron lifters are a thing of the past as cast iron alloy became the norm. It would seem likely that all liftersbeing sold are cast iron alloy and therefore not compatible with the original forged steel cam. Anybody agree? Disagree? I read about Willy's experience with 56 lifters on a 55 cam only lasting 20,000 miles over on the AACA page.Though I can't view the photo, ending up with a hole in the bottom of the lifter doesn't sound very appealing. If the 53-55 aftermarket lifter is in fact made of the same material as the 56 I imagine that the result would be the same. Sourced from the 1956 Product School Manual (thank you Hometown)
  6. What oil for lifter break-in?

    I replaced all pushrods last year when I had the heads done. When shopping for pushrodsI came across two different lengths that both stated 53-56, 8.414" and 8.25". I went with the longer rod because it matched up closely with what I removed, and the and the shorter rod at 8.25" was significantly shorter than what I had, 8.369- 8.380" with wear.After reading about the differences here on the forum relating to the '56 cam lifters and pushrods, I assumed that the 8.25" must be for the '56, though I have never confirmed this to be correct. Though not in a set of verniers, the shorter rod in your photo looks to be about 8.25" on the tape measure. It would seem that the distance from the bottom of the lifter to the bottom of the cup would be longer for the '56 because the pushrod is shorter, howeverI've never confirmed that.Maybe the plunger travel is different.
  7. Red reflectors needed

    You can find the actual reflector reproduced as original with the Guidex logo and Guide x42 lettering. This was used on several other GM vehicles of the era. Unrolling and re-crimping your bezel around it is the challenge. I've only got one and it's in good shape,so I haven't bothered with this yet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/56-Chevy-Bel-Air-150-210-Rear-Lamp-Reflector-Lens-Made-in-USA-PAIR/390359945011?hash=item5ae3440f33:m:mMr4y3c6u31OIWJitlTI-3Q&vxp=mtr
  8. What oil for lifter break-in?

    So far, it's not progressing well. The set of VL-2 lifters I ordered was missing one lifter. So I contacted the seller and they sent me a single lifter to replace the missing one. It arrived, but is not the same as the rest of the lifters I received in the original shipment. The single lifter is longer than the rest and has a deeper pocket for the pushrod. The single liftermatches up well in both appearance and dimensions,with the lifters I removed which I can only assume are original to the motor.I've read some of the other threads on the page about lifters and pushrods, and the dangers of combining 54-55 componentswith 56 due to differences in both lengths and metallurgy in relation to the cam, so I stopped and contacted the seller again,and they're sending a new set out. I love it when anhour or two job turns into a couple of weeks. I took some measurements to see how different they were before I pack them up for return.I placed a 3/8" ball bearing in the pushrod cup and measured from the bottom of both lifters to the top of the ball. The shorter bodylifter with the shallow pocketmeasured 2.002" , and the taller body lifter with the deeper pocket measured 1.988", a difference of only 0.014. Take out the length of the ball, .3745",and you've got 1.6135" and 1.6725" respectively for the measurement between the bottom of the lifter and the bottom of the cup for the pushrod. Still 0.014" difference. All the info I have found generally indicates that the shorter body lifter with a shallow pocket is the 56 variety, while the taller body lifter with the deeper pocket is the 54-55 version. However, a difference of only 0.014" doesn't seem likeenough to affect anything. The 56 pushrod is substantially shorter. At any rate, I ordered a set of lifters and I expect all of them to match. The seller asked which one I preferred and I told them the longer body/ deeper pocket. So, maybe later this week I can finally get this job done.
  9. Red reflectors needed

    Hard to come by. They show up on eBay occasionally, but usually for top dollar. It's hard to get them off without snapping the studs off the back. I'm in need of one as well.
  10. What oil for lifter break-in?

    I slathered lifters and cam lobes pretty generously with assembly lube. Will probablyrun the Lucas 10w30 Chris recommended. It's cheaper than buying my regular oil and the zinc additive.
  11. What oil for lifter break-in?

    No. Did not replace the cam. Have had a lifter tap for a while that was initially only present at cold start up but has been progressively getting worse and is now audible pretty much all the time. If the car sits for more than 24 hours, that lifter bleeds down and takes a moment to pump back up when the car is started, and the tick no longer goes away after it is warm.
  12. After replacing lifters, what oil should I use to break them in? I've read about how most oils on the shelf these days are loadedwith detergents and no longer contain zinc.Is it wise to purchase a non-detergent oil and maybe add a bottle of zinc additive? Add the zinc additive to myregular 10w30 oil?Spend the money on a break-in oil?
  13. Leaking Valve Covers

    The sealing flange was 90 degrees to the side of the cover and flat all the way around. I checked them after I squared the sides back upusing fatherbuick's vise trick before I put it all back together last year. I did use a thin smear of ultrablack on the side of the gasket that faces the valve cover. More to hold them in place than for sealing. The other sidewas plain cork(no sealant) mated to a very clean and dry surface of the head. I hate using sealant on that surface. Mostly because I hate cleaning that surface up while trying not to let any little bits get into the valve springs and oil passages if the valve covers ever have to come off. Maybe I need to reconsider.
  14. Leaking Valve Covers

    My valve covers leak. I hate seeing it on the motor after I cleaned and painted the engine last year when I had the heads done. When I pulled the valve covers I noticed they were a bit mis-shaped.I read that this is prettycommon and the solution I found was to put them in a vise and gently tighten until they are back in shape. This worked fine, it didn't take much effort to get them squared back up nicely. When everything went back together, I noticed that before my torque wrench would click (only 4-5 ft./lbs.) that the base of the covers were already starting to squish back out. I didn't want to keep cranking so I stopped, they seemed snug , but they've been leaking. Should I entertain looking for another set ofvalve covers? The set I have seem solid, no rust, etc. but if they won't hold their shape it seems like there's a problem.I'm using cork gaskets, but wouldchange to rubber if they'd be likely to seal better.
  15. Your 2 barrel Carter is likelywhat came on thecar. 4 carbs were used on the 54. Carter or Stromberg were both available in 2 or 4 barrel models.Carter WCD 2bbl, Carter WCFB 4bbl, Stromberg AAVB 2bbl, and Stromberg 4AUV-267 4bbl.Specials and Supers got the 2bbl while Century,Roadmaster and Skylarkgot the 4bbl.