Vindictive

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About Vindictive

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 10/15/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Charlotte, NC

Car Info

  • 1954 Buick(s) 48D
  1. When I'm not working on or enjoying the Buicks.

    I'd find room for one of these. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RELEASE-HO-SCALE-KIT-1954-BUICK-2-DOOR-SEDAN-SYLVAN-KIT-V-259/112831308516?hash=item1a454522e4:g:PCMAAOSwRYVaj4C4
  2. Getting ready for the summer season

    I did mine about a year and a half or so ago using the same process Mr. Earl detailed. I think I ended up using the KBS brand three stage kit. It turned out nice and put an end to fuel filters caked up with orange flecks of rust. There was so much nastiness that came out during the clean/prep, it looked almost like brand new bare metal inside before I put the liner in. It will do a number on your back though, I was sore for several days.I'd recommend at least getting a helper to assist with all the sloshing and rinsing.
  3. Fuel filter

    I have a similar set-up with a little Facet electric pump. It's what was on the car when I got it and was being used as the sole fuel pump at the time. I rebuilt the mechanical fuel pump but left the electric pump in place though it's no longer used.It is wired to a toggle switch under the dash so I can use it to prime if needed, or as a back-up if there's a problem with the mechanical pump. I've only ever used it once, after I had the carb off so I wouldn't have to wait for the bowl to fill while the engine cranked.The mechanical pump draws gas from the tank through the electric pump quite well. The amp draw is low, so you should be able to tie in to an existing circuit without issue.
  4. Opening up and then re-closing that crimp looks like it would take some patience and finesse in order to avoid distorting the outer edge of the bezel.
  5. The lens was used on many different GM models with differing bezels/housings. Guidex X-42 is thelens in the reflector that came in the parts box with my car. I assume that it's an undisturbed original, the crimp looks un-molested but I don't know for sure.Reproductions are available with the Guidex script logo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/56-Chevy-Bel-Air-150-210-Rear-Lamp-Reflector-Lens-Made-in-USA-PAIR/390359945011?hash=item5ae3440f33:g:BhAAAMXQHPFRgLkz&vxp=mtr
  6. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Everything good so far. Tapping is gone. Been driving it to work everyday and a little running around town as well. It was an awful racket when I first fired it up, but they quieted down pretty quickly as they pumped up.
  7. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Pull the distributor and prime before starting? Or is the assembly lube sufficient until oil pressure comes up?
  8. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Look what I found. And for lessthan a set of aftermarket lifters.
  9. What oil for lifter break-in?

    Thanks Willie. I feel somewhat better after reading that post. Part of me isleaning toward tracking down one or two NOS lifters that area direct replacement for '54, and just replacing the one that's tapping. The other part of me just wants to replace the whole lot of them and not worry about another one going bad in another 6 months. Here's the page I found over on AACA: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/80587-1955-valve-lifter-interchange-help-needed/
  10. What oil for lifter break-in?

    A little more reading last night has left me more concerned about the compatibility of aftermarket lifters available from pretty much all of the retailers out there. I read that all of the reproduction cams being sold are of the cast iron alloy variety like '56 rather than the forged steel that was what came in the '54. I checked CARS, Kanter, Bob's, and Fusick, and they all sell a camshaft labeled 1953-1956, and yet theysell lifters for 53-55 and another for '56. The lifter bodies for 53-55 weremade from chilled iron, while the lifters from '56 were made of cast iron alloy. A single camshaft isn't going to be compatible with both types of lifter. It seems that chilled iron lifters are a thing of the past as cast iron alloy became the norm. It would seem likely that all liftersbeing sold are cast iron alloy and therefore not compatible with the original forged steel cam. Anybody agree? Disagree? I read about Willy's experience with 56 lifters on a 55 cam only lasting 20,000 miles over on the AACA page.Though I can't view the photo, ending up with a hole in the bottom of the lifter doesn't sound very appealing. If the 53-55 aftermarket lifter is in fact made of the same material as the 56 I imagine that the result would be the same. Sourced from the 1956 Product School Manual (thank you Hometown)
  11. What oil for lifter break-in?

    I replaced all pushrods last year when I had the heads done. When shopping for pushrodsI came across two different lengths that both stated 53-56, 8.414" and 8.25". I went with the longer rod because it matched up closely with what I removed, and the and the shorter rod at 8.25" was significantly shorter than what I had, 8.369- 8.380" with wear.After reading about the differences here on the forum relating to the '56 cam lifters and pushrods, I assumed that the 8.25" must be for the '56, though I have never confirmed this to be correct. Though not in a set of verniers, the shorter rod in your photo looks to be about 8.25" on the tape measure. It would seem that the distance from the bottom of the lifter to the bottom of the cup would be longer for the '56 because the pushrod is shorter, howeverI've never confirmed that.Maybe the plunger travel is different.
  12. Red reflectors needed

    You can find the actual reflector reproduced as original with the Guidex logo and Guide x42 lettering. This was used on several other GM vehicles of the era. Unrolling and re-crimping your bezel around it is the challenge. I've only got one and it's in good shape,so I haven't bothered with this yet. https://www.ebay.com/itm/56-Chevy-Bel-Air-150-210-Rear-Lamp-Reflector-Lens-Made-in-USA-PAIR/390359945011?hash=item5ae3440f33:m:mMr4y3c6u31OIWJitlTI-3Q&vxp=mtr
  13. What oil for lifter break-in?

    So far, it's not progressing well. The set of VL-2 lifters I ordered was missing one lifter. So I contacted the seller and they sent me a single lifter to replace the missing one. It arrived, but is not the same as the rest of the lifters I received in the original shipment. The single lifter is longer than the rest and has a deeper pocket for the pushrod. The single liftermatches up well in both appearance and dimensions,with the lifters I removed which I can only assume are original to the motor.I've read some of the other threads on the page about lifters and pushrods, and the dangers of combining 54-55 componentswith 56 due to differences in both lengths and metallurgy in relation to the cam, so I stopped and contacted the seller again,and they're sending a new set out. I love it when anhour or two job turns into a couple of weeks. I took some measurements to see how different they were before I pack them up for return.I placed a 3/8" ball bearing in the pushrod cup and measured from the bottom of both lifters to the top of the ball. The shorter bodylifter with the shallow pocketmeasured 2.002" , and the taller body lifter with the deeper pocket measured 1.988", a difference of only 0.014. Take out the length of the ball, .3745",and you've got 1.6135" and 1.6725" respectively for the measurement between the bottom of the lifter and the bottom of the cup for the pushrod. Still 0.014" difference. All the info I have found generally indicates that the shorter body lifter with a shallow pocket is the 56 variety, while the taller body lifter with the deeper pocket is the 54-55 version. However, a difference of only 0.014" doesn't seem likeenough to affect anything. The 56 pushrod is substantially shorter. At any rate, I ordered a set of lifters and I expect all of them to match. The seller asked which one I preferred and I told them the longer body/ deeper pocket. So, maybe later this week I can finally get this job done.
  14. Red reflectors needed

    Hard to come by. They show up on eBay occasionally, but usually for top dollar. It's hard to get them off without snapping the studs off the back. I'm in need of one as well.
  15. What oil for lifter break-in?

    I slathered lifters and cam lobes pretty generously with assembly lube. Will probablyrun the Lucas 10w30 Chris recommended. It's cheaper than buying my regular oil and the zinc additive.