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1954 Buick(s)

  1. 1 Fuel and vacuum lines - Buick Engine Green (as heavy overspray). 2 Pulleys - Generator, Water pump, Power Steering, - No Paint (cad) 3 Harmonic Balancer - Buick Green paint. 4 Engine bolts - Per Dave Corbin " If you look at the engine outside, anything that's attached by a bolt that goes through a GASKET joint will be engine color, since it has to be there to test run the engine." 5 Accessory mount brackets? Power steering main mount bracket and the 8 inch angle iron brace that bolts to the engine. Buick Green 6 Power steering pump - Black * The correct de
  2. Okay, so that my 6 hours today of endlessly tearing down my carb for no reason do not go to waste, I want to document my troubles in hopes that it saves the next guy my pain. Here is what was happening: Cali would turn over, and fire while I was cranking. But, as soon as I let the starter disengage, it would die. I was totally convinced what was happening was that the idle circuit in the carb was not letting in any fuel, and only the high speed circuit and accelerator pump was running. So, I tore apart the carb 5 times today, endlessly chasing all the low speed and idle passages with air,
  3. After getting stranded on the side of the road last week and watching fuel shooting out of a little hole on the firewall side of the carb, I discovered my 46R has a 726S Carter on the manifold. Didn't the Special series leave the factory with 2081S Carter carbs? Is there a major difference? I was debating whether to rebuild the one I have or try to find a 2081S.
  4. 1954 Buick Century 4dr mild custom. rebuilt ('06) 322 nailhead and dynaflow tranny. recored radiator. edlebrock 4barrel cab w/ holly hvy duty fuel pump and summit fuel cell. seatbelts added. lowered and shaved. candy classics and lakepipes. $10K in so cal video http://www.myspace.com/tavoandtheflatblackthrillers/videos/54-buick-century/37007582
  5. Where does the time go? I bought Cali in 2000, hoping to have it restored for 2004 - the 50th anniversary of both the car, and my parents wedding (yep, they were married in 54). I had hoped I could chauffeur them to their reception, but of course, in 2000 I was 30, young family, house, payments, savings, and of course, no money and no time. At least I was able to borrow a 54 Chev to chauffeur them in on their 50th, but I digress. Fast forward 13 years, and while I have dabbled with the Buick, at my current rate of progress I can expect to drive it when I am 137 years old. Given a recent h
  6. So there I was, farting with the wires in the trunk on a sweet Super hard-top that followed me home from Texas. 64K miles, unmolested, her name is Evelyn, and pictures will be forthcoming. I was in there getting my licence plate lights and back-up lights working again. Mission accomplished, Evelyn and I were happy. But I think I screwed up the wire for my gas-guage while I was in that area. Now when I turn on the ignition, the gas needle sweeps hard to the right, burried well-past the full-mark. Do I have short or contact problem in the sender wire? Or a bad sender that just happened t
  7. Calling all local 54s! Car Show downtown historic Fredericksburg on the 4th! From 8am-2pm! Come if you can make it. I have spots reserved!
  8. Greetings, I recently purchased a 1954 Buick Special as a parts car in order to help complete another restoration. I have a few questions which I have not been able to find answers to regarding restoring and refurbishing certain parts. Here we go... 1. Is there any reputable company that can restore the speedometer, cluster gauge (gas, temp, oil pressure and amp meter) and clock to my Buick? I can not seem to find anyone by doing a Google search. 2. Is there anyone who rebuilds the generator and and starter for these cars? It seems very wasteful to throw out the old generator an
  9. The new little low mileage Special I just got had a hollow sounding rattle coming from what sounded like the right upper engine area. I pulled the rocker arm covers and *discovered that the previous owner had replaced 4 of the push rods and that they were over sized in diameter. I suspect that back when it was pulled out of 20 years storage, the valves had stuck *resulting in some bent push rods. I am not sure but suspect this may be the cause of the rattling. * I pulled some out of a parts car, cleaned them good and proceeded to pull all the over sized and old ones from the right side of the
  10. Well, I vapor locked for the last time. I figured that new valves and diaphram in the fuel pump would do the trick. Mechanical fuel pumps look neat, but they just won't quite cut it in the summer. Going uphill, the car sputtered out- fortunately I managed to glide off the road. Then I drained the battery trying to restart it.:dash1:The fuel also leaks back down the pump if it sits a week or two, and the carb will loose prime. I figure the starter fluid was just standard equipment if the car sits a couple weeks. Facet has a nice little fuel pump at NAPA that doesn't need a pressure regulator.
  11. Hi, I have a question. After some small TLC of the Buick engine compartment i discovered that a few parts are ended there lifetime. The plastic insert of the Vacuum starter switch and the Vacuum advance is leaking. I searched the internet but without results for the little tiny plastic insert . The vacuum advance i found as a core at Bob's . But is there a company wich makes the inserts of the starter switch . Its so much nicer to start the Buick with that switch . Hope you can help me . Paul
  12. Where can I find the original "Silver Dollar" fuel filter for my 1954 Buick?
  13. Well finally took time to pull the heads from the yellow Buick. I found a dead cylinder when I preformed a compression test. Can see where valve has been hitting the piston. Just got to clean them up and send to the machine shop. I have read articles about not putting hardened seats in the heads. What is the deal with that?
  14. Hello I'm asking if someone could help me out on my 54 special starting system. Every time I try to start the car, I have to depress the accelerator several times which I hear a click, then sometime after the 5th or 10th time, sometimes more, it catches and starts up. Has any one else had this issue? Is my solenoid going bad? Should I just go with some electronic ignition and has someone been successful with it in their Buick? How do you go about changing it if that's the best route? Any specific instructions and advice would be much appreciated. I'm really trying to make it more reliable and
  15. Hi guys, I am after a fuel pump rebuild kit for my 264, I have searched everywhere I can think of, and No luck.... They want me to send it back so they can rebuild... But to ship from Australia IS A BITCH $$$$$$ so wondering if anyone has a Kit spare or laying around that I can buy.... OR knows where I can buy a kit from??????????? REGARDS
  16. So what's the trick to put the front piece of fuel line in through the frame?
  17. Hi all, Just wanted to pass along a tip. Still have to send in my original fuel lines for inline tube to pattern up, but needed to install one set on the convertible to get it going while waiting on the new lines. For those who haven't had to replace the front line that spans the cross member it is a bit of a pain to thread it through the frame to connect to the line running back to the tank. The solution I came up with was to use an electrician's trick of using a fish tape of sorts. The line has to go through several openings to make its way back to where it emerges from the frame rail.
  18. Does anyone know is the brake line kit from inline tube is a good fit? Is there a lot of tweaking to get it to fit? They have a kit for $155' or should I just buy strait pipes and go throughout all effort to bend and flare them myself?
  19. Today whilst driving my 54' I noticed that only ever in top gear that the car intermittently will lose throttle on me, Its like its flooding itself, its weird. I can be driving along at 30mph or 45mph it doesn't matter, just out of no where it will do what ever this problem is. could it be electrical breaking down??? or does it sound like a fuel problem? Please HELP
  20. On the back of the WCFB there is what appears to be a diaphragm housing where the fuel inlet line comes into. What is the function, pressure regulator or anti vapor lock or something else? Is it needed or can it be safely bypassed? Are new replacements available if it is needed, if so (sources please)? Fuel pump rebuild or replace, what do the in the know say? This will be more of a driver than restoration at this point. Mooneyman Bill
  21. I was given a lead on a 1954 Special 2-dr. hardtop by a friend a few weeks ago. He showed me photos of the car--it is about 55 miles away--and told me that the seller's asking price was $6300. My first thought was that the car is over-priced, even if the body is perfect. It has been in long storage, will run, but has no brakes and is not driveable. I do not need another car, especially another project, so I forgot about it. Then my "buddy", Mr. Earl, starts asking me if I am going to go look at it and when, and that it sounds like it is worth the money if it runs, has no dents, no rust, etc.,
  22. So here is my next quagmire of goo... I have a few fuel/vacuum pumps for my 54 322 and have to decide which one to use. They all are the same other than the fact they seem to feel different. (When I push lever) The manual does mention there is not a way to bench test these, but thought maybe someone would know how a good one would feel. The manual does have a section on these, sems pretty involved. Are they difficult to rebuild? Does anyone have vast knowledge of these little gems? Thanks, Jerry
  23. I have attached a pic showing the location of a hole aprox 3/8 inch in diam. he punch is in the hole. The hole is on both sides of car. It goes through to inside the cabin. I imagine itis a drain hole but what type of hose is used to connect to outside??
  24. Hi all, Passing along another tip. In the process of cleaning up the fuel tank I pulled the sending unit. This was from a car that had sat for at least 15 years, so needless to say the entire tank was slug coated with the varnish that was left from whatever fuel was last in there. The sending unit was similarly crusted up and wouldn't move at all. I tried several solvents from brake fluid cleaner to pb blaster and nothing seemed to help at all. I tried gently flexing it and the arm was just plain old glued into place by the varnish. I figured that I was in for buying a new unit so I did
  25. my fuel gauge is not working has anybody a replacement for sale how low or high is the ohm on the original gauge does anybody know that??
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