Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Vindictive

Column Harness

6 posts in this topic

Last December, like two days before Christmas, I had to go pick up a last minute Christmas present for my wife after work. As I was driving thru an extremely busy parking lot I turned the wheel and the horn went off, then it stopped when I straightened out. Then it did it again the next time I turned the wheel. At this point the person in front of me is probably thinking "what the hell is this guys problem?" and I was getting all kinds of looks from people walking to their cars. This time it didn't stop when I straightened out. I pulled over as soon as I could find an empty space, which took forever because it was so busy with other last minute shoppers. I couldn't sort it out there, and ended up just pulling the fuse for the horn so I could drive without the horn full blast all the way home. Anyway, I've been driving since then with no horn because it's grounding out somewhere inside the column. My guess is the bushing/contact on the lower end of the shaft as I was unable to find any issue up at the top when I removed the horn ring from the steering wheel. I've read about the repair process for replacing this bushing with a plumbing fitting and plan to tackle this job in the near future. However, while troubleshooting the horn I noticed that the wires coming out of my column for the turn signals, etc. are extremely brittle. If you mess with them at all the insulation cracks and falls off leaving bare wire exposed. I want to replace all of this when I do the horn job. I've only found one site that offers this harness and it's like $80, and they usually want a small fortune for shipping on top of that. Anybody know of another source that has it for less? For that price I'm inclined to make my own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is not complicated, but a tight mess of wires in there going to the turn signal switch.  The only hard part will be getting it shaped just so to make it fit.

old-tank likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Getting ready to tackle this job. Got all my color-correct wires and a 3/4''-1'' reducer fitting. I'm planning to pull the column only and leave the steering box and shaft in the car. Do the reverse/neutral safety switch and the horn sweeper at the lower end of the column need to come off in order to slide the column off? I tried to remove the screws that hold the horn sweeper, but they wouldn't budge. Not enough room to swing a hammer at my impact driver under there. I gave them a shot of pb blaster a couple of days ago but haven't tried again yet. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The horn sweeper screws are innthere duper tight.  Try vice grips to turn them from the side.   The neutral safety switch also needs to come off for to kerp it from damage.  Maybe when you get the column loose, you can rotate it down to get these both off...

Vindictive likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Completed the horn contact and turn switch re-wire job. It really wasn't too bad of a job. The horn contact was destroyed. A piece of it was completely missing. I never did find it.  The rubber bushing that the contact is seated on was completely loose and sliding on the steering shaft.  In fact, I believe that the rubber had slid out almost completely from underneath the brass contact as it was much lower on the shaft than where it should have been positioned when I pulled the column off, and there was a rub mark  around the steering shaft where the rubber should have been that that would correspond to the location of the sweeper as it passed over the slot of the missing brass on the contact. I used a little rtv to "glue" the rubber back into the correct position on the shaft, and also to "glue" the plumbing fitting to the rubber bushing. The biggest pain I ran into was adjusting the shift linkage after I raised the column (my thigh always hits the bottom of the steering wheel when I lift my leg to brake). Of course the clevis and nut were frozen on the shift rod so I had to remove the rod and heat it up with a torch to get the nut to break loose. Then I bumper the end of the clevis with my forearm while it was still hot and burned two nice little marks on to myself with the ends of the clevis.

IMG_0554.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0