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I got a new set of motor mounts from CARS but I’m having a hell of a time installing them. I thought it would be a quick job I could knock out in an hour, but I spent two hours crawling around under the car pushing and pulling and prying and raising and lowering the motor to try to get the bolt holes lined up before I gave up with lots of profanity. Are these mounts poorly made or is there some trick to it that eludes me? I know that you’re supposed to disconnect the torque tube and loosen the trans at the thrust pad to allow the motor and trans to settle into their natural alignment. I haven’t done that yet. I didn’t think I’d need to just to slide new mounts in. 

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Mount them loose to the engine, then let the studs guide you into the holes in the frame.  Perhaps jack up the rear end as well, as there might be some tension pushing the whole drivetrain forward with the front in the air? Getting the rear end up might relieve that.

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Hoo Boy, it looks like CARS is still selling junk mounts.  Remove them and verify that the studs on the mount will index the holes in the frame.  You will probably find that the studs are too close together.  After choice words referring to the vendor, I grind the inside 1/3 of the studs to get them to fit; be sure to chase the threads so the nuts will go on easily.

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I got them in for now, but I'm not real happy with it. The studs on the bottom drop down into the holes in the frame just fine. The issue was that I couldn't get both holes on the top plate of the rubber mount to line up with the holes in the brackets on the engine. One would be dead on but the other would be blocking the bolt from dropping through. It's more like holes in the top plate  aren't indexed correctly in relation to the location of the studs. Seems off a few degrees. The driver side wasn't too bad, they were close enough that I was able to drop a screwdriver through the hole and wiggle it back and forth a bit to get the holes aligned. With the weight of the engine resting on the mount it held it in place and I could get the bolt dropped in place. The passenger side under the generator was a real pain in the ass though. It was probably off by 1/4". Had to really twist the mount to get the holes lined up, and couldn't pull out the rod I used to get them lined up or it would snap back to it's natural position. I ended up using a small screwdriver like a prybar against the block and the top plate on the mount to get the holes to line up enough to drop the bolt in. I don't like the rubber having that much of a load/twist. I'm still planning to follow the service manual procedure on engine alignment and disconnect the torque tube, loosen the thrust pad and motor mount bolts, then give it a wiggle to find it's natural position see if that helps at all. 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 5/15/2019 at 5:37 PM, old-tank said:

Hoo Boy, it looks like CARS is still selling junk mounts.  Remove them and verify that the studs on the mount will index the holes in the frame.  You will probably find that the studs are too close together.  After choice words referring to the vendor, I grind the inside 1/3 of the studs to get them to fit; be sure to chase the threads so the nuts will go on easily.

Do you have any experience with Fusick's mounts?  or sending them in to Steele rubber for revulcanization?  Buttercup's mounts are pretty dry...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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